The Paris Flea Market, Vol. I
Shop the World's Largest Marché aux Puces like a Local Interior Designer.
What is Marché aux Puces Saint-Ouen? The Marché aux Puces Saint-Ouen is the largest flea market in the world and often referred to as “Les Puces” or the Paris Flea Market. The world famous market started in the mid 1800s when vendors who sold upcycled goods were expelled from the city center and forced to sell their wares just outside the city’s military walls on the bare ground. Marché aux Puces translates to ‘outdoor bazaar’ and references the humble beginnings of Les Puces. Spanning over 17 acres in the Paris suburb of Saint-Ouen, Les Puces consists of 15 markets and 1,700 vendors, attracting more than 5 million visitors each year. Set your expectations accordingly, I’ve been to the flea over 100 times and still haven’t seen all 17 acres. Visit the Marché mid-morning on the weekends to avoid the afternoon crowds. If you choose to visit the market on Friday or Monday, double check to be sure that it is open, as hours are more limited during the week and the French have a lot of National holidays. You could easily spend three to five days at the market, but if you only have one day, follow the itinerary below to catch my favorite vendors.
My favorite markets at Marché aux Puces Saint- Ouen. Paul Bert, Serpette, Vernaison, and Dauphine are my favorite markets of the fifteen. They have gorgeous collections of furniture and housewares and you can comfortably visit all five in one day with the plan I’ve outlined.
Best way to navigate Les Puces. Start your epic shopping expedition at Paul Bert. Grab a coffee and croissant at La Crème before walking the aisles of the grand outdoor market. Wander down all the aisles and browse the stalls of vintage fashion, furniture, and decor. After strolling through Paul Bert, head inside to Serpette for designer vintage wares and antique furniture. You’ll find everything from Louis Vuitton trucks, Chanel tweed suits to Desede sofas. This is the best place for design inspiration and high end vintage furniture and decor. After Serpette, you’ll want to sit down to enjoy lunch with a glass of wine like the French. Make sure to book a reservation in advance at HaSalon or Bonne Aventure.
After lunch, shop along the main street, Rue des Rosiers. Stop in Maison Dumas, Miroirs Antiques, and Glustin Galerie. For the best vintage clothes at bargain prices, head to the top floor of Marché Dauphine. While you’re at Marché Dauphine, take a coffee break at Noir, a lovely cafe that will refuel you for the rest of the day. The French often drink wine or espresso in the afternoons if you want to imbibe like a local.
For the quintessential French flea market experience, head over to Vernsaison, the original flea. This market has a little bit of everything. You can find some good deals and it’s a great place for small goods to carry home with you. Some of my favorite finds from this market include artwork and a vintage wool Yves Saint Laurent coat. After a day of shopping, stop for a glass of wine and fabulous people watching at Cafe Jaune, Mob Hotel or try one of the cafes on Rue des Rosiers.
What to Wear? Wear comfortable walking shoes (sneakers I love) and leave your designer handbags at home. If you want to blend in with the locals opt for tailored jeans, a crisp white button down and a light trench. All-black is also universally chic, but might get uncomfortably warm in the summer. Bring water and a large reusable tote if you plan to purchase smaller items to take with you.
How to get there? Take a cab to Paul Bert. If you take the metro, use Line 13 and stop at Garibaldi. It’s a nice 10 minute walk to the markets from the metro stop.
How to ship items internationally back home? For larger items you can arrange shipping with companies like Hedley’s and Ship Antiques. Email them ahead of time for convenience and efficiency. I encourage my clients to pack lightly and bring an empty carry-on for smaller, delicate items that can be wrapped and taken on a flight. If you’re interested in shipping large items home, reach out to a shipping company prior to your flea market account to set up an account.
Other tips. Make sure to barter. Often you’ll get a better deal but not always. It doesn’t hurt to ask! Most places take credit cards but there are ATMs available too (beware of long lines at the ATMs in the afternoon). Cash in king. You’ll get a better deal when paying cash of course. Since the Marché is internationally renowned, most vendors speak at least some English and many are fluent.
If you want a private shopping experience. On weekends, I take clients to the flea market for flea market tours. We can shop for everything from 90s LV Speedys to vintage art and everything in between. If you’re interested, here’s more information about the flea market shopping experiences!
Thank you for reading this week’s Postcards from Paris! If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask in comments or DM on IG at @allison.crawford.
Bisous!!
Allison
Photography by Elvina Abdullina
For more information about the Paris Flea Market Shopping Experience, click here.
To read What Parisians are Really Wearing Today, click here. It’s my most popular Postcard ever!
This is such a good guide! I've always been mildly overwhelmed of the flea (despite absolutely loving vintage shopping) because it's so massive. Will most definitely be putting it to use when I get back to Paris!
Wish I'd had this when I went to the Puces last July. It was my first time and I was overwhelmed. I'm pretty sure I saw nothing like 17 acres, lol. Another reason to go back!